2.5 day Biking Sojourn in Seattle
LAND ACKNOWLEDGEMENT: I would like to acknowledge that we visited the traditional land of the first people of Seattle, the Duwamish People past and present and honor with gratitude the land itself and the Duwamish Tribe.
Fountain at Seattle Center. Photo by Kyle Ramey of Bikabout.
In 2014 when my daughter, Annika, was 4 years old, we traveled to Seattle on Amtrak’s Empire Builder. It was our 6th of 7 cities (Boston, Madison, Chicago, Charleston, Portland and Vancouver BC) that launched Bikabout. We spent a little over a month traveling, mostly by train, some by rental car and bus, with 2 Brompton bikes and a special kid seat attachment for Annika, called the IT Chair. I found some stellar Airbnbs on our trip and fondly remember our place in Fremont neighborhood of Seattle as our first stay in a tiny home, a custom built one with some of the coolest design details including a sodded roofdeck patio and trap door opening to a huge bathtub. It was magical. Annika loved the playgrounds, my husband the beer and culture and I loved the urban topography. The hills were such a workout for me pedaling both Annika and I on the Brompton. I remember stopping at the Seattle Center fountain and was mesmerized into a happy place by the kids playing to a Beatles soundtrack.
Fremont Bridge, 2014. Photo by Kyle Ramey of Bikabout.
CITIES CHANGE
I hear the same thing in great cities and towns across the country, “the city has changed so much. I don’t recognize it,” and this is especially the case in Seatlle. Yes, it has changed, as all desirable urban areas with thriving economies have in the last decade. The change has not been perfect with the City’s population growth unaccompanied by transit, leading to incredible vehicle congestion and sprawling gentrification. This is why we bike and walk places. What’s most alarming is the price of housing in the bike friendly and walkable neighborhoods, with a mortgages far outpacing the savings of a car-free life.
View of downtown Seattle and Lake Union from Gasworks Park. Photo by Kyle Ramey.
COVID EFFECT
The last time we visited Seattle was February 2020, the weekend that the first Covid case broke in America, serendipidiously in Seattle. It was a weekend getaway for us and I remember we had been out all day and night and came back to our Inn to watch Saturday Night Live, which was interrupted with the news. There was a sense that things would be forever different.
February 2020 - Little did I know this cocktail at Life on Mars would usher in a different world. That evening we heard the news of the first Covid case in America. Photo by Kyle Ramey.
Fast forward 2 years, things are very different in cities, especially so in downtown Seattle. This time, we stayed in a hotel near Pike’s Place Market and it all seemed pretty normal during the day. But once the sunset happened, a very different vibe settled in which reminded me of Back to the Future 2’s alternate present dominated by Biff World.
The wealth disparities were on display between the housing insecure openly grilling with fires in the street and the suits coming out of Amazon glass towers. An additonal layer was the highly masculine bro nightlife. I had to tell myself this was a great, controlled boot camp for Annika on how to handle herself on a bike at night in a city, when culture rapidly changes. But, I would recommend avoiding downtown after dark. Neighborhoods are where it’s at.
January 2017 - Lake Union bike trail. Photo by Kyle Ramey.
By and large, the City hosts a great life for people who bike and walk for transportation (I’ll get into nerdy infrastructure photos later in the post). If I could be a dual resident of Seattle and Hood River, I would. In fact, if anyone wants to trade places a couple times a year, we are game.
Covid put a damper on our annual pilgrimage but we finally returned last month thanks to a nice Christmas gift from my mom. This recent trip was a wonderful 2-day reflection on how much I missed Seattle.
Gasworks Park, 2014. Photo by Kyle Ramey of Bikabout.
Why Seattle is the coolest city for biking with kids
I am unapologetically biased. Seattle is my favorite city. It’s mostly based on music culture, but I love everything about it, the topography, climate, unplanned fun, how accessible it is by train and how easy it is to escape to a nearby island by ferry.
topography
Seattle may be the most beautiful city in America because of the hills, water and panoramas. What makes it so unique, also makes it hard to ride a bike with insane hill grades so prepare to walk your bike uphill…or rent an ebike. I am constantly amazed by the views on the top of the hills. You can almost trace your bike routes and how you meandered through the city to your current location.
As an alternative to biking, check out the Howe Stairs, the 5th longest public staircase in America with 388 stairs.
Lake Union. Photo by Kyle Ramey of Bikabout.
2. No plans? No problem.
Kyle and I joke that our hashtag should be #noplans. We thrive on days when we have a vague idea of where we want to go but the rest is up for grabs, following our noses, eyes and ears. Seattle is wonderful for the unplanned approach because there is ALWAYS something to eat, drink, see, experience, listen to or poke around.
Fremont Bridge. Beautiful hidden pockets of architecture and the built environment are everywhere. Photo by Kyle Ramey.
Fremont Bridge Troll. One of our favorite “kid stops”. Photo by Kyle Ramey.
Olympic Sculpture Park off the Elliot Bay Trail. Photo by Kyle Ramey.
Olympic Sculpture Park off the Elliot Bay Trail. Photo by Kyle Ramey.
Ballard Locks and fish ladder. Photo by Kyle Ramey.
Interlaken almost car-free Park. Photo by Kyle Ramey.
Interlaken almost car-free Park. Photo by Kyle Ramey.
Washington Park’s Arboretum is wonderful for trail running, but do not bike on unpaved trails.
Discovery Park has wonderful trails with views of the sound. Photo by Kyle Ramey.
Biking and walking bridge connecting Discovery Park and Ballard Locks. Photo by Kyle Ramey.
Life on Mars, a music forward and veggie themed cocktail bar, is another unplanned rest stop. Photo by Kyle Ramey of Bikabout.
Fremont Brewery is a favorite watering hole, especially to pick up a can to go and enjoy at nearby Gasworks park for sunset beer. Photo by Kyle Ramey.
KEXP Studios - Mother-daughter pose recreated from 2016 photo. Photo by Kyle Ramey of Bikabout.
3. music and kexp
Where do I start? This radio station, 90.3 KEXP, gives me so much joy in life. Listening to the station and getting outside are my religion and my pastors are the DJs. I cannot tell you how many times they have saved me from a depressing day or made me dance or turned me onto a new artist. Our daughter jokes that if we are home, KEXP is on (we use Sonos to listen, but you can tune in with their app).
background on kexp
The radio station is celebrating their 50th year in 2022 and is listener-powered, meaning that they depend on donations from individuals to keep running. We donate $40 per month, a bargain considering some cable tv subscriptions are $100+ and arguably don’t bring you as much joy. The music is independent with a few commercial hits slipping through, which I love because it feels grounded. We listen to all the programming from Greg Vandy’s Roadhouse (Americana), Don Slack’s Swinging Doors (country), Eva Walker’s Audioasis and of course, the daily congregation of John Richards, Cheryl Water, Larry Mizell and Kevin Cole.
KEXP’s Bed-in for Peace. I was starstruck to see DJ Kevin Cole (cream sweater, at left), and was unaware at the time that he was talking to someone I knew online-only then - a future dear friend, Andrea Learned. Photo by Kyle Ramey.
When the 2016 election happened, we had just moved to Hood River, and felt more alone than ever with no friends or family to talk to about how depressing the whole thing was. I tuned in to KEXP and Cheryl Waters played all women for her set. It changed my mood around from feeling helpless to empowered.
For inauguration day 2017, we made the trip to KEXP studio to see them for the first time and take part in their bed-in for peace. I remember seeing all the DJs in person, and having major celebrity shyness. Annika, then 6, was excitedly pointing because they are our family’s rockstars.
January 2017- First time visiting the new KEXP studios. Photo by Kyle Ramey of Bikabout.
There are hundreds of instances of me crying from hearing a story of depression, cancer, death; or, of me laughing and messaging my husband, “did you hear that!?” I routinely take screenshots of the app’s playlist and send to my friends who I share a musical memory with. It re-bonds us.
At the end of this month, I’m going to two concerts that I would only know about because of KEXP, Nation of Language and Wet Leg, and I’m over-the-moon excited.
KEXP and you amazing DJs, we love you so much.
Light in the Attic Records at KEXP has a great selection of new and used vinyl. Photo by Kyle Ramey of Bikabout.
KEXP DJ Troy Nelson emceeing the WoPop Sound-Off showcase. Photo by Kyle Ramey of Bikabout.
WoPop Sound-off showcase. Photo by Kyle Ramey of Bikabout.
Biking past the Space Needle to KEXP studios, a regular pilgrimage. Photo by Kyle Ramey of Bikabout.
Biking past the Space Needle to KEXP studios, a regular pilgrimage. Photo by Kyle Ramey of Bikabout.
We breathe, therefore we bike and listen to music. KEXP connected Andrea Learned to Megan. Photo by Kyle Ramey of Bikabout.
Note on our Lodging
We stayed at the Palihotel, gifted to us by my mom, but they weren’t all that friendly to people biking. I would recommend checking out one of the bike friendly hotels in our lodging directory or find a home to stay in one of our favorite neighborhoods: Ballard, Capital Hill or Fremont.
Palithotel was homebase. Not the most bike friendly hotel. Photo by Kyle Ramey.
No bike storage, no problem for Brompton Bicycles.
Photo by Kyle Ramey.
advocacy pontification
Pike Place Market may be one of the top 5 places in America that should be a car-free place for people. I continue to be dumbfounded every time we visit that cars driving here is still a thing. This historic cobblestone space is crying to get cafe tables, outdoor vendors and the ability to walk without worrying about cars darting around looking for parking.
Pike Place Market is probably the biggest car-free plaza opportunity in America right now. Photo by Kyle Ramey.
Pike Place Market is probably the biggest car-free plaza opportunity in America right now. Photo by Kyle Ramey.
Contrast the photos above with the one from Melissa and Chris Bruntlett of Modacity, below. Which place would you rather be?
4. The Weather
We always bring warm, waterproof layers and footwear on our visits to Seattle and just get outside and enjoy the green-ness that the rain brings. Photo by Kyle Ramey.
“There’s no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothing.” Do I prefer 73 degrees and sunny? Yes, but not all the time, and it’s not realistic. Seattle has a great climate for peope like me that like variety and don’t mind bringing their rain jacket and pants. The rain forest aspect of the weather means you get furry, mossy trees downtown, lots of green, and damp smells. When the rain clouds part, it’s glorious!
5. Family Friendly Bikeways
7th Avenue cycletrack is brand new. Photo by Kyle Ramey.
Seattle has come a LONG way since our first visit. The Burke-Gilman trail was always the biggest bikeway asset, but now, there are a series of protected bike lanes downtown on 2nd and 7th Avenues, among others. You can tell the planners and engineers are REALLY trying.
Our family is very appreciative of the investment and attention to detail and whole heartedly encourage the City to be bold and do more.
Don’t believe my smile. Pike and Pine Streets between downtown and Capitol Hill are disconnected, use completely diferent design styles, and put vulnerable riders next to parked cars and turning vehicles. Photo by Megan Ramey.
One specific gap is on Pike and Pine Streets between downtown and Capitol Hill. We found it tricky to navigate the on and off bike lanes on Pike. On Pine, downhill, we were weaving between fast moving traffic turning right and parking cars. Those two streets should have continuous protected bike lanes for the entire length.
2nd Avenue protected bike lane. Photo by Kyle Ramey.
LOVE the resting rail on the new 7th Avenue cycletrack. Photo by Kyle Ramey.
The devil is in the details. Installation of resting rails on the protected bikeways near intersections makes the rider feel loved!
No problem for our 12 year old daughter to ride ahead on the safe 7th Avenue cycletrack.
Photo by Kyle Ramey.
Crossbikes showing us the bike route. Photo by Kyle Ramey.
As Seattle builds out more first class bikeways and weaves the bike network web, I encourage the planners to think like a child or better yet, a helicopter mom or grandma, when designing the facilities. The ability to flow from one destination to the other with great bikeways and accompanying wayfinding signage will nudge Seattle into a Gold rated bike city.
6. Seattle is accessible by train
Seattle’s King Street Station provides a grand entrance to the city. Click photo for a guide on taking your bike on the Amtrak train. Photo by Kyle Ramey.
We would much rather arrive in a city by train than by airplane or car, especially considering the hassles of flying and traffic congestion. Cost of the train ticket, followed by trip duration compared to other forms of travel, are the usual barriers. But this time, the cost was a little over $100 for the three of us, the Amtrak Cascades is a bike friendly train line, we didn’t have to pay for gas or parking, and all the timetables matched our needs.
Car-free journey from Hood River to Seattle began with CAT bus, which holds 9 bikes, 3 on front, 6 on the back. Photo by Kyle Ramey.
BUS
First, we boarded our local CAT bus (Columbia Area Transit) in Hood River. We are Gorge Pass members, a $30 per person is the cost for unlimited free rides to Portland, the mountain or nearby towns. The bus has rack space for 9 bikes, 3 on the front, 6 on the back. After a 60 minute beautiful ride through the Columbia Gorge, the bus drops you off at Gateway Transit Center.
Car-free journey from Hood River to Seattle began with CAT bus, which holds 9 bikes, 3 on front, 6 on the back. Photo by Kyle Ramey.
TRIMET OR RIDE YOUR BIKE
From Gateway Transit Center, you can walk 25 feet to Trimet’s light rail line, buy a $5 ticket and ride 15 minutes to downtown Portland. Or, ride your bike on beautiful neighborhood greenways, mostly downhill, which will take you about 25-35 minutes depending on your speed and familiarity with the route. There is excellent bike wayfinding signage to help you.
Car-free journey from Hood River to Seattle included Trimet in Portland. Photo by Kyle Ramey.
TRAIN
Once you have arrived in downtown Portland, bike over to Union Station and check-in for your trip. You will need to reserve a spot for your bike, pay $5-10, and receive a baggage tag for the bike. When boarding starts, the conductors will point you to the baggage car where you can lift your bike to the handler.
Important change: electric bikes (ebikes) have a new policy. The bike must weigh under 50 pounds (without the battery) and you need to remove the battery prior to giving it to the luggage handler. Take the battery on the train with you.
We loved that the conductor called people with bikes after first class passengers and before everyone else! For our family, we divided and conquered with my daughter getting us primo seats at the booth style table, husband handing over the electric bike and I was the luggage mule.
Our two Brompton folding bikes are designed to go in airline overhead storage, so putting them overhead on a train is no problem, but you have to show the conductors that they fold down because they won’t believe you, repeatedly asking you if you need a baggage tag for them.
Car-free journey from Hood River to Seattle was mostly spent on the Amtrak Cascades train.
Photo by Kyle Ramey.
When we arrived in Seattle, we loaded our bikes and rode an easy 1 mile down the 2nd Avenue cycletrack to our hotel.
Portland’s Union Station. Car-free journey home to Hood River. Photo by Kyle Ramey.
Portland’s Union Station. Photo by Kyle Ramey.
Summary
Seattle is such a fun city to wander by bike. There is something for everyone and you will want to plan your return visit as soon as you leave. Please use our travel guide below for additional resources to plan that trip.
